The 88 Temple pilgrimage of Kobo Daishi is more than a tourist trap.  It's one of the bits of Shikoku culture that residents soon find themselves as familiar with as udon or iyokan.  Entire seasons seem incomplete without the tinkling of bells dangling from walking sticks and the sound of distant chanting.  Just the sillouette of a white-garbed traveller in a wide sedge hat can inspire a twinge of respect or even charity.  The spare coins in our wallets suddenly seem heavier at the sight of a pilgrim's begging bowl.
 
As much a part of the fabric of my daily life the pilgrims have become, I had never walked in their shoes.  I suppose I'd never even thought of it.  To most people, walking the countryside to visit temples seems an antiquated form of torture.  After all, we have trains and busses for that!  But thanks to the efforts of several international exchange groups active in Kagawa Prefecture and the assistance of learned local guides, I was given a chance to walk part of the circuit as it was meant to be walked and get a glimpse of some of the more charming, hidden-away parts of the 88 Temple route. 
 
We travelled from Motoyama Temple to Kaigan Temple on foot, in the company of friends old and new.  At each temple we were met with friendly faces and helpful explanations.  The historic buildings and sprawling grounds were made all the more intriguing with a context in which to place their architecture, statuary and incence-scented interiors.  There is a wealth of history waiting to be uncovered by curious visitors. 
 
The paths between the temples run through some of the most gorgeous, authentic countryside Kagawa has to offer.  The road winds through rice paddies, mountains, lakes, streams, reservoirs, orchards, shrines and neighborhoods large and small... ocaisionally dissappearing altogether for a stretch of forest or a major highway.  In each place we found all manner of wildlife.  We saw ducks, turtles, hawks, lizards and songbirds at nearly every turn ~ some species unfamiliar to me.  It's possible that some of them don't live in my home country, but it seems even more likely that I'd simply never paused along a forest-path long enough to appreciate them as they quietly went about their business overhead and underfoot.
 
The pilgrim trails twist through mountain and forest alike.  Fallen trees bisect the path and streams carry it away here and there, leaving no doubt as to the extreme age of the half-buried stones underfoot.  I found myself greatful for the company of a multitude of surprisingly well-tended statues the guardian boddhisattva Jizo dotting the path.  Some were deliberately cleaned and cared for, decorated with cut flowers and small offerings.  Others were being tended by nature itself, surrounded by more erratic sprays of wildflowers with offerings of acorn shells and fallen leaves.  These statues and their remarkable variety of serene expressions are the surest way to be sure that you're still safe on the path to the next destination.
 
They say that when you walk the 88 Temple Pilgrimage, you walk with the Buddhist master who originated it: Kobo Daishi.  Walking with purpose and contemplation, some may gain new perspective on our lives and the buddhist concerns of earthly suffering.  But one need not have such lofty goals to enjoy the beauty to be had along the way.  Walking the 88 isn't just "walking with Kobo Daishi", it's walking with Kagawa itself.


Jessica Nettles


 

Motoyamaji to Iyadaniji

It was beautiful day and the best weather for a gentle trek.　Cool breezes reminding one of the winter just ended and the bright sunshine of the long hot summer ahead this day would be exceedingly pleasant.

The first temple, Motoyamaji, was a small oasis of serenity in the semi urban mix of rice fields and compact housing. The effect of the temple seems spread to the nearby streets as the narrow laneways that lead to the temple precinct are lined with old houses of wood and tile. The walk from there north toward next temple, Iyadaniji, was long one through many different areas of coastal Kagawa. It crossed major and minor roads, passing through built areas and onto expanses of rice fields and over several water courses. But the real treat is when the going gets a little tougher. The last few kilometres before Iyadaniji start to climb through beautiful hillside woods. Stopping at a "michi no eki" or road station for lunch, some of the more adventurous participants joined kids playing on an extensive and somewhat grim super jungle gym left over from an era with much larger public works budgets. After refreshments the path up the final few kilometres to the temple are short slog with some very attractive artifacts such as a 15th Century bronze statue of Kanon.  A set of stairs with 108 steps which with the exertion of effort for each step, one sin is absolved and the pilgrim becomes that much purer at the top. The temple area itself is both beautiful and fascinating. We were extremely lucky to be given a short talk by the head priest and heard of the traditions of commemorating lost loved ones and of the temples origins and the excavation of the Lions Mouth Cave which contains ancient figures representing Kobodaishi and his parents. All this topped of with outstanding views over the mountains to the south before heading north again down a real forest trail before emerging in to modern Kagawa and the last few kilometres to Kaiganji station. With a mix of both rural mountain this trek was easy and rewarding and the temples, as ever, wondrous.  

Richard Talbot
 
 
 

   I enjoy seeing the busloads of retirees disembarking in front of ancient temples, their white shirts looking fresh pressed, straw hats bobbing around as they twitter to each other. Usually when I see henro, it is these types of people, and while we foreigners waited in front of Motoyamaji for the day to start, a fresh group of retirees meandered into the temple. It is easy to forget that the Shikoku 88 temple circuit started as an ascetic practice that take many grueling months to complete. For many, it still is. When I looked past the gaggle of retirees chatting together in between chanting to Kukai, there was a somber henro whose jacket was less than white and whose entire appearance was that of a man who has spent many weeks hoofing it over these mountains with nothing but the necessities and a bowl to ask for money so he can continue on his pilgrimage.
    On this last henro hike we trekked down one of the back mountain paths leading away from Iyadaniji, where you probably won't find a stray group of retirees chatting. As I carefully chose each step down the slick muddy mountainside, I thought of the somber dirty henro I saw earlier that day, and all the centuries of ascetics who spent months quietly suffering through the same areas in search of enlightenment.  I had to concentrate on each step I took, lest I slip and fall down a mountain, making me block out the normal, day-to-day thoughts. That's exactly what this experience is supposed to do for a person. It's hard to worry about paying bills, or making the next lesson plan, or buying the newest manga when you are focused on where to place your foot on this precariously placed slippery rock with a five meter fall to one side.  While the retirees safe in the bus traveling paved roads to other temples aren't worried about impending injury, I'm sure they are getting the same escape into a simpler life.
    After completing the near twenty kilometer henro hike and feeling a sense of somber tiredness, I had to be slightly envious of that silent disheveled henro I saw earlier that morning amongst the group of retirees. His is a long and arduous journey, but I'd love to always have that free and quiet mind I had at the end of the day.

Cool, crisp morning air
Sunlight kisses cheek softly
Slept-in, Panic starts!

Rush against the clock
Shower brush dress pack and leave
Ready, set, START-O
 
Zig-zag across town
Dodging cars and obasan
Like Family Circus

Panting, Throbbing pain
Sweat in train window reflects
ギリギリよ！

Warm faces gather
Encircle to study, learn
Question, muse, engage

Fun company kept
Conversations encourage
To push past the bend

Hills hum with silence
Midday sun casting all over
Kukai's shadow

Mountainside of death
Narrow path with no safety
Wish for insurance

Following Kukai
His road flooded by week's rain
Henromachi gone

Escape Death Mountain
Enjoy a view only seen through
Shared experience

Though it overlapped
In its talks, wear, and people
一期一会

Aandrea LaFavor

As a foreigner living in Japan, there are many opportunities to experience and share everyday occurrences with Japanese co-workers and friends.  However, all of these experience happen through the perspective of exactly that--a foreigner living in Japan.  But no other experience has allowed us to so profoundly step inside the life of a Japanese quite like going on a henro pilgrimage.  Walking on the same streets and in the same traditional garb as thousands of Japanese pilgrims before you, it is easy to feel a special bond with the temples you visit and the people that worship in them.  In a way, it makes me feel closer to Japan in general.  While I may not share the hardships of the journey or the devoutness of faith as the typical Japanese pilgrim, I have a greater appreciation for the spectacular  undertaking these people have chosen to take on.  I felt extremely humbled as I imagined those who walk for hundreds of miles to become closer to their religion, and to better themselves in the process.

Dave Wilson

This is my second time participating in the henro pilgrimage and although the distance was longer this time (18.5 km), I found it easier and more enjoyable the second time around.                                   
My first time we visited Yashimaji and Yakuriji in November 2009 and this year Motoyamaji and Iyadaniji.  The reason I love participating in this pilgrimage is because it's a great way to learn about Buddhism for people like myself who don't necessarily spend a great deal of time studying and reading about it.  I'm glad to be able to share my growing knowledge of the 88 temple circuit with visitors to Kagawa.  I'm so thankful for being able to participate this time around and again, would encourage anyone visiting Kagawa or living in Shikoku to participate and share their experience with the world.

Omar Kotondi

I had been very much looking forward to this ohenro walk. Hiking and religions are both life long interests to me, and ohenro is an excellent combination. I ask most people that I meet whether they are interested in ohenro in the hope that one day I will meet someone that hares some of my interests. I have visited about a quarter of the 88 temples so far, and walked between a few, but had not visited Motoyamaji, Iyadaniji, or Kaiganji. I was also exited about having a guide. I get a lot out of the books I have on ohenro and Shingon buddhism, but have never had a chance to hear or from a live person that knew anything about it. Even the weather was good - it seemed everything was lining up for me.  I'm sure someone else will give a great description of the whole day, so I'll just cover a few things.

We started by getting into the ohenro gear. The jacket was a good fit for me, but there was no hope of getting the hat on because my head is larger than a grapefruit. I also didn't take the bell, because I knew from experience that I would be irritated by the jingling. As a trader, I would have been very happy to short hats and bells as a day trade.

It was a short walk to Motoyamaji. On arrival we were given some basic history of the 88 temples, and told how to wash our hands to visit the temple. I was really surprised that we weren't told about the honzon of this temple, or the mantra. I was also surprised that there was no mention of stamp books or clothes. A friend of mine was also surprised, as he said, the stamp book is the best souvenir of Japan you could possibly find. The big surprise came when we weren't told anything about chanting the heart sutra. I had expected that we would all be chanting it together, just like every tour group that visits the temples. This was related to another big question I was hoping to investigate - why do so many Japanese people chant this sutra every day without having any idea what it means? The same goes for the short sutra that is chanted for each honzon. I've showed Japanese people the English version in my guide book, and so far every one has been surprised that the mantra actually meant something.
On the way to Iyadaniji I observed that all foreigners had gotten sick of the bells and stopped them from ringing. Several people that wore the straw hats now had a crown of thorns like pattern carved into their foreheads, creating an interesting reference to another popular religion.

Iyadaniji was a really interesting temple - it was built into the side of a cliff. We started to get some explanation of various features so I got some encouragement that deeper information would be forthcoming.  I got really excited when we sat in a room in the temple next to cave with several statues, and a priest came to do a presentation for us.  Unfortunately the presentation he gave us was exactly the information we had already heard. Obviously it wasn't planned that way, but that's how it turned out. I was hoping to hear something about Shingon buddhism, with a history and comparison to other types of buddhism. Gradually, many if not all of the foreigners also became embarrassed as we realised that by sitting in that room we were blocking other visitors from seeing the cave.

Maybe I shouldn't have been surprised - if a person went on a church tour, information they receive would be mostly about when the church was built, not the history of Christianity. Still, I can't understand why the physical building is so important, but the background - why it was built - is not. The differences between different types of modern Japanese buddhism and whether they get along or compete is another puzzle to me. I know that some of the temples on the 88 temples tour are not Shingon.

The walk from Iyadaniji was excellent, hiking on a narrow path through a beautiful forest in the mountains. It was also fascinating to me to see the difference in walking confidence between people that grew up in flat places or mountainous places.  We took longer than planned, so a friend and I were the only people to visit the last temple, Kaiganji. Kaiganji is not one of the 88 temples of the tour; instead it is one of the 20 exceptional sites. I hadn't visited one of these before, and my friend pointed out that there was a special stamp book just for the 20 sites. This was a great discovery, and I enjoyed the visit to that temple the most out of the three.
Overall, it was a good day and I'm glad I went. I suspect my disappointments are mainly due to having different interests to other people. The 88 temples (and the 20 exceptional sites) are very important to me, but not because they are buildings.

Chris Gaskett

隠れた山寺へ
Journey to the Hidden Mountain Temple

平成１８年から２０年まで三豊市の豊中中学校でＡＬＴとして勤め、毎日本山寺の前にある道を通って通勤したが、その２年間一度も境内には入らなかった。平成２２年４月２４日の外国人のための四国八十八ヶ所遍路体験で初めてこのお寺を訪ね、国宝である本堂のきれいな屋根と空に聳える五重塔を見ると「早く来ればよかったのに」と思った。

    I worked as an Assistant Language Teacher (ALT) for the two years from August 2006 to August 2008 at Toyonaka Junior High School in Mitoyo City, Kagawa Prefecture.  However, during that whole time, I never once set foot inside Motoyamaji despite the fact that I commuted to work everyday on the street that runs right in front of the temple.  I finally took my first steps inside on April 24, 2010 during the 5th Shikoku 88 Temple Circuit Experience for Foreign Residents and Visitors, with a group of fifteen other "pilgrims."  We took in the gracefully curved lines of the temple's Main Hall, which was built during the Kamakura Period (1185-1333) and is a designated National Treasure, and we peered up at the towering five-storied pagoda.  The beauty of the temple made me think to myself, "Why didn't I come here sooner?"  

のどけしや
五重塔を
仰ぎけり

Gazing up, up at
The temple's tall pagoda -
Awash in Spring's calm

本山寺を出発し、北へ向かった。三豊市に点在する数多くの貯水池やゆるやかに起伏する平野を通り、次第に急になる坂道を１１キロ歩いて、剣五山の麓にやってきた。山道を登り、俳句茶屋や賽の河原、金剛挙菩薩などを見ながら弥谷寺にたどり着いた。不思議に感じたのは、その山の懐に隠れているお寺は下から見えないが境内から見下ろすと三豊市全体が見えるということであった。本当にきれいな景色であった。

    Our group left Motoyamaji and set off to the north.  We passed Mitoyo's plentiful reservoirs and its low, rolling plains as we hiked 11 km up a path that gradually became steeper.  We then reached the base of Kengozan Mountain, where we began our ascent up the steep path.  On the way we saw a rest stop called the Haiku Jaya, on the walls of which were hung hundreds upon hundreds of haiku poems, written by pilgrims passing on their way through.  We saw a strange piles of rocks called the "Sai no Kawara," which are said to have been made by the spirits of deceased young children in a display of respect for their parents and ancestors.  We also saw the awesomely tall statue of Kongoken Bosatsu, or the bodhisattva with clasped hands, bending down to greet us as we passed by before finally arriving at Iyadaniji.  I found it enchanting that, even though the temple cannot be seen from below on the approach, when you look out from its inner sanctuary, you can see the whole of Mitoyo City lying before you.  It was truly a beautiful view.   

懐に
隠れる寺の
春うらら

Clear, shining spring day -
Secretly hidden temple
In the mountain folds

弥谷寺の大師堂になる｢獅子の岩屋｣という洞窟で住職にお寺の歴史や文化、例えば「弥谷寺参り」という風習などについて説明していただいた。その後、弥谷寺の本堂と磨崖仏を見てから、険しい遍路みちくだりに挑戦した。路の一部が崩れ、一部が小川になっていたので降りるのが危なく感じられたが、木の枝を貫く木漏れ日はとても美しかった。海岸寺駅までの最後の６キロをゆっくりと歩き、穏やかな夕暮れの下で第５回の遍路体験はおしまいになった。
    
    At Iyadaniji, the Daishi Hall (the hall dedicated to Kōbōdaishi Kūkai, the Buddhist monk who is credited with founding the Shikoku Pilgrimage) is built into a mountain cave called the Shishi no Iwaya - the Lion's Mouth Cave.  Here the chief priest gave us an explanation of the history of the temple, as well as an introduction to some of the special customs of Iyadaniji, such as the "Iyadani Mairi," in which people bring the hair and finger nails of the deceased members of their family as offerings.  After this, we hiked a little higher up to see the Main Hall and the images of the Buddha carved into the mountain wall before attempting the perilous downhill descent of the Pilgrimage Trail.  Here, the path completely crumbled away at certain points and it merged with a mountain stream at others.  Though it felt dangerous at times, we couldn't help but be mesmerized by the beauty of the sunlight filtering through the mountain's green trees.  We made a leisurely walk of the last 6 km to Kaiganji Station, and beneath the sunset of a gentle evening sky, the 5th Henro Experience came to a close.
 
山裾の
林を抜ける
遍路かな

Exiting the woods
At the skirt of the mountain -
Pilgrims clad in white


クリス・マッケーブ
Chris McCabe

 

遍

2009年度香川海外技术研修员  黄 丽琼

2009年11月28日（星期六）

盼望已久的遍路体验终于到来了。以前看过遍路的介绍后，便非常向往，总想着自己什么时候也能亲身体验一下，今天可谓如愿以偿。

天气有点冷，不过是个晴天。参加今天遍路体验的人大部分是外国人，欧美人更是占其中的多数。虽然语言、外形都不尽相同，但是一换上遍路的修行白衣，戴上斗笠，大家都摇身一变，俨然成为了一名遍路修行者，虽然仍有说有笑，但多少增添了一丝庄严肃穆的气氛。

今天的路线是从屋岛步行至八栗寺，全程大约14公里。首先向屋岛寺进发。平时不太运动，所以登山时有点吃力。不过沿途的路人看见我们遍路的装束，都主动地跟我们打招呼或打气。"辛苦了！""加油！"听着这些亲切的话语，脚步也似乎变得轻松起来。遍路可以说是四国特有的一种文化，以前就听说四国的人们对遍路者都有一种特殊的感情，从今天的体验看来的确如此。沿途的景色也非常迷人。正值红叶的季节，层林尽染，为旅途增添了不少乐趣。

大家三三两两地陆续到达屋岛寺。在这里工作人员给我们详尽地介绍了寺庙的朝拜方式。在寺内参观了一番之后，大家到外边的屋岛眺望台体验掷瓦片的乐趣。据说掷瓦片来源于源氏在屋岛之战胜利后在屋岛山顶投掷自己的斗笠以示庆祝的典故。后人将斗笠换成了小小的圆形薄瓦片，模仿其在屋岛山上投掷，并祈望自己能有好运或愿望成真。大家纷纷买来小瓦片，争相投掷，小小的瓦片顿时在空中此起彼伏。要是扔得好，瓦片便能乘着风在空中久久回旋，划出漂亮的弧度。许愿说不上，但是扔了几次后，仿佛自己的疲惫和烦恼都随着那小小的瓦片随风远走了，倒也觉得神清气爽。

掷瓦片及休息后便开始下山。屋岛下山的路和上山时完全不一样。上山时走的都是修的比较好的路，下山时就是一般的泥土山路了，不仅陡峭，还比较湿滑。途中还滑倒了一次，不过总算安全到达山脚。想想空海还有以前的修行者所走的路应该比这还要艰苦上百倍，心中不由得又多了一份敬意。

中午在有名的山田家乌东店吃了美味的乌东面后，大家又精神抖擞地上路了。下一个目的地是八栗寺。进八栗寺时把在屋岛学的朝拜方式都用上了。先在山门施一礼，进门后洗手、漱口，然后朝拜本堂，之后是大师堂......虽说若心中有神佛，不一定要拘于形式，但是通过这些方式也似乎更能融入到整个寺院的气氛当中。

八栗寺的住持还特意为我们诵读经文。之后我们喝着寺院为我们特意准备的甜米酒，听住持给我们介绍八栗寺的来历。据说空海当年祈愿自己入唐求学成功，竟在院中埋下了八颗炒过的栗子，历经艰辛归来后，这八颗炒板栗竟然真的长成了茂盛的大树，八栗寺也由此得名。在当时的条件下，能否安全到达中国，能否学有所成，之后能否回到日本，这一切对空海来说都是未知之数，按主持的话来说，那就和炒板栗长成大树一样，就像是一种"空想（fantasy）"。但我却不由地为空海这种实现自己"空想"的精神所感动。空海并不是预先知道自己会成为"弘法大师"，知道自己会取得这么大的成就才去做这些事情的。抛开弘法大师这个头衔，为了自己的目标或梦想一步一步地努力向前迈进的精神不正是每个普通人都能做到的"修行"吗？现在很多人总是抱怨条件不行，没有这没有那的，最终原地不动沦为没有梦想的人。虽然不是每个目标或梦想都能实现，但是拥有实现梦想的激情并付诸行动却是实现目标的前提。这八个炒栗子的故事给了我不少的启示，

2009

    在秋高气爽的深秋，我穿上白色的遍路服，手持雕刻着"同行二人"字样的手杖，并在手杖的上边绑着一个铜制的小铃铛，开始了我期待已久的初次遍路体验。

    自从今年6月份从中国西安来到香川，我就已经知道遍路了。遍路来源于一个关于空海的美丽传说。空海出生于香川。大约在1200年以前，空海历经千辛万苦，从日本来到中国的长安城（现在的西安市），师从青龙寺惠果大师，苦心研习佛教密宗真谛。经过多年修学后，空海学成回日本，用其余生撰写了许多关于真言宗的大量的有深远影响力的著作，并在和歌山县的高野山建立了一个真言宗的法坛寺庙，大力弘扬真言佛法。

    但是，空海自从中国学成回日本后，却从未在其的出生地四国岛上传讲过佛教，这块生于斯长于斯的土地无时不刻地不在深深地吸引着空海。后来，空海重新走遍这个美丽的四国岛，徒步拜访已有的寺庙、并新建了许多寺庙共计88座，以宣扬真言宗。对于现在沿着这条相同的路进行修行的人们，据说空海的精神依然还留在这条路上，所以每一位修行者都不是孤单的，因为空海与他们同行。这就是遍路！

    无论这个传说是否真实，但我现在已经走在了这条遍路上。沿着空海的足迹，从中国西安的青龙寺来到香川，然后再走上这条空海的修行之路。这是多么的神奇啊！。

    深秋的香川如此美丽。清晨，藏在红叶中的屋岛寺显的格外神圣。走在通往屋岛寺蜿蜒的山路上，我仿佛听到了空海禅杖上悬挂的金属环叮当作响，并回荡在整个山谷。我知道那一定是空海在陪伴着我。来到屋岛山顶，极目远望，整个香川尽收眼底，不由地在心间徒生诗情画意，于是急笔写下中文诗一首，以抒情怀。

同行二人

屋岛洲崎八栗寺，

清晨红叶二人行。

凭倚石栏忆今昔，

空海弘法遍路情。

    离开屋岛寺，拍去身上的风尘，扶正遍路斗笠帽，手中的手杖握地更紧，我迈出坚定的步伐再次向八栗寺出发了。深秋的阳光是暖暖的，微风是柔柔的。五剑山就在不远的前方，她好像伸出五个手指正在欢迎着我。面前的道路指引我继续、继续、再继续......

                                            张锐