30Nov08: Barbara Barrett
My Henro Reflection
The first time I ever visited Takamatsu station, I was surprised. I was just taking in the scenery, but I must have looked lost, because 5 people (both Japanese and foreign) stopped to offer me help within the first 10 minutes I was there. At first I was surprised. I had lived in Hiroshima City for a year before coming to Kagawa Prefecture. Despite it being an international city, the people there tended to avoid foreigners like me, even if we clearly were lost and needed help, because they were afraid they would have to use English. I later learned that because of countless pilgrims traveling the 88 Temple Circuit, the people of Shikoku are extremely hospitable, and will do their best to help visitors despite language and cultural barriers. I believe this is a big part of why I have come to love living in Kagawa so much.
I had walked past Doryuji Temple in Tadotsu countless times, but kept putting off going, despite the fact that I was already collecting stamps and ofudas from the 88 Sacred Temples. I was extremely excited to have the chance to go there for the first time with a bunch of the other ALTs in Kagawa, as well as other Prefectural employees who I rarely get to see.
I have collected stamps and ofudas from the temples since the very first one I saw during a vacation at Ashizuri Cape in Kochi Prefecture. I had visited about 5 temples before the experience, but was not aware of the etiquette. I feel a lot more confident about visiting temples now, and was even inspired to visit the last 3, which are in my town - Sanuki City, on my own during the following weeks.
We couldn't have asked for nicer weather. The fall leaves were lovely. It really is true that you do notice a lot more when doing a walking pilgrimage rather than traveling by bus, car, train, or bicycle. I was grateful that despite getting off to a late start, we were able to complete our journey more or less on schedule.
I remember making friends with a bunch of older Japanese ladies who were also making a pilgrimage between temples after lunch. We invited them to take photos with us, and they were elated. I also remember the smiles and waves we got from the local people as we walked between the temples. People living in Kagawa see henroes on the road all of the time, but to see such a large group of foreigners "henro"ing together is certainly a rarity.
I also remember running into some very small kindergarten aged children who were playing along the road. As we foreign English teachers tend to do, we waved, said hello to the children and gave high fives. It was likely the first time the children had interacted with foreigners, and I was happy that despite their being shy at first, they eventually warmed up to us.
I had expected walking 10 miles to be very long and tiring, but we arrived at our final destination, Zentsuji, in what felt like the blink of an eye. I had been to Zentsuji before. In fact, it was the first of the 88 Temples that I visited in Kagawa Prefecture. However, I will never forget the special opportunity we had to receive a private lecture given to us by a monk at the temple. I have studied Japanese Buddhist culture since middle school, but during the lecture I feel I really came to understand a lot of what I had read about and seen with my own eyes here in Japan.
What sticks with me most from the lecture in Zentsuji is how the speaker compared the human race to a beaded tapestry. We are all connected, and affect one another. When a bead sparkles, the beads around it will also sparkle. When people are peaceful, and do their best to make the lives of the people around them joyful, the result is beautiful, On the converse, if one bead is broken or dull, it affects the others around it as well. After hearing this, I have decided to do my best to brighten the days of the people I work with and spend time with here in Japan, and friends and family back home.
Walking underneath Zentsuji is also an unforgettable experience, and being able to experience it with my good friends made it even that much more special. I tried to recount the experience to my friends and family back home, but I really hope that they can come experience it for themselves one day. Before I return home to America for good, I definitely want to travel between all 88 Temples in order.
