30Nov08: Ciaran O Donoghue

The Hachi-ju Hakkasho in One Day

 

I was blind and deaf. I couldn't see anything. Only darkness. The only guide was my hand which cautiously moved along the wall, inspecting every bump and groove in a desperate attempt to find my bearings. The silence seemed to echo throughout the tunnel, so much so that I felt I should interrupt it. But I couldn't. I wasn't allowed. I was told to keep my mouth shut (which is sometimes quite a challenge for me). At first the feeling was unnatural and so I made my way clumsily onward. The only consolation was knowing there was a person in front of me experiencing the same discomfort. Was I going mad?

I had seen them often; their large circular hats, walking sticks and traditional white tops.  I had seen them in all the towns in which I have schools (which is a lot). I had seen them in all the towns I'd visited. But who were they? Why were they all wearing the same clothes? And why were they always walking? Of course I was to learn the answers to all these questions. They were bravely undertaking the 88 temple walk! A walk which spans the entire Shikoku island and whose spiritual journey is matched only by its physical demands.

It is a journey founded by Kobo Daishi in which all 88 temples are visited and then returning to the first temple to complete the circuit.

The walk is without a doubt the best way to see Shikoku, each temple bringing you the road less travelled and revealing a beauty of the island not captured from gazing out the window of a car. All the temples are as diverse as the walk itself; each with a different style, layout and size. If nothing else it is great exercise! As we had to pack the journey into one day we could only visit five temples, but a journey it was none the less.

Each temple gave an insight into the history and traditions of the Japanese lifestyle. The walk ended in Zentsuji Temple, the largest of all the temples.

An underground tunnel was our final test. A tunnel devoid of light in which no one was to say a word so as to enhance the peaceful experience.

              So as I walked through the tunnel gradually accepting my surroundings I experienced a peace I usually don't encounter in my unspiritual life. It was an incredible opportunity to reflect on my life and try something different.

Someday I hope to muster up the courage to complete the entire circuit. Actually...what's stopping me? When else will I have the chance to undertake such a significant journey that's out my back door?

So 5 down, only 83 to go!

 

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