10May09: Richard Talbot
First I would like to say thank you to the event organisers and participants that put so much into it to make an enjoyable and rewarding day. I am very glad to have been able to participate in the experience and can thoroughly recommend that stretch of the Henro as a beautiful, scenic and peaceful part that contrasts with the more urban sections.
The road from Nagaoji to Okuboji seems to have elements that represent much of Kagawa. The busy roads around the Kotoden station in Nagao with the tour buses, taxis and old folk give way to more open small holdings with their seasonal crops, fruit trees compressed gardens and complex dwellings. These in turn give way, as the road rises towards the green mountains in the south, to larger fields and larger, older houses with their "tsuchikabe" walls encircling large gardens and courtyards. As the roads starts to climb higher the valley sides begin to narrow and their height becomes appreciable. Before reaching the scenic lunch stop at the Maeyama Dam our guide Mr Katagiri pointed out several roadside stone markers which reinforced the connection of the modern asphalt road with the history of the Henro tradition. More modern markers of tape and plastic abound but these carved markers are somehow more reassuring.
Leaving the Dam behind the path soon leaves the broad Prefectural road and makes a beeline for Mount Nyoutai as the path leaves the asphalt and becomes steeper and narrower, winding up through the forest, at times following secluded streams or skirting isolated rice fields. Travelling in a group we perhaps did not really notice the silence of the forest except at brief pauses before tackling the next steep stretch.
The track then ascends Mount Nyoutai, the trees and under growth change with the altitude, the translucent deciduous foliage mixing with sporadic bamboo stands and towering cedars.
Tantalising glimpses of the valley behind and the Sanuki plain beyond are satisfying proof of one's progress from urban to the natural in space of a few hours. Once we finally reached the lookout on the ridge near the top of Mount Nyoutai, the stunning view was great reward for the efforts of the climb. The subsequent descent to Okuboji Temple down well maintained stairs is much easier and the roofs of the temple buildings quickly came into view. The serene destination was a welcoming sight for the weary part time pilgrims and must be even more so for those dedicated individuals who have spent months walking and climbing to complete the entire 88 Temple route. Personally this is one of the sections I will do again, and take more time to enjoy the forests and ever changing views.
