16May09: Nicholas Josten
Henro
For the past two years I have lived in Zentsuji, just minutes from where Kukai was born. I frequently visit the temple and hike the mountains behind. While climbing these mountains I think of Kukai as a boy, before he founded the Shingon sect and became Kukai, and wonder what he thought about as he walked through this same forest.
Arriving at Nagao station I still had Kukai on my mind, and the saying that all henro wear on their white jackets and on their straw hats: 同行二人. While walking through the mountains surrounding Zentsuji I really felt that Kukai was walking with me. Now, as we left the station dressed as real live henro, I got the same sense that Kukai was walking beside all of us, despite all the changes to the surrounding town that has grown up around the temple in the past 1,000 years. Even though very little would have been recognizable to Kukai if he were to set out on the pilgrimage today, there are still reminders throughout the countryside. Every now and again we would pass a small stone pillar carved with directions to the next shrine or temple, no doubt a welcoming sight before there were paved roads and GPS.
After a couple hours of walking through the town and deeper and deeper into true Japanese countryside, we left pavement completely behind to start our hike up the mountain to Okuboji Temple. While the scenery through this area was stunning, I would have preferred Kukai to carry me rather than walk alongside me. After an hour of walking uphill, with our henro bells jangling to the creek's tinkling, I felt in awe of the true henro of the past who not only walk up this mountain, but also continue on for another 1,200 kilometers through mountains that are just as high and challenging. But once I neared the top I could view the Sanuki plain stretching below, making my aching leg muscles feel not so bad. With just a little more push we arrived at Okuboji Temple, and I felt glad that I had pushed myself up the mountain, like I had accomplished something. I prayed first at the main temple, then to Kukai, thanking him for keeping me company on my struggle up the mountain. Then I found the nearest bench and waited with a well-earned matcha ice cream for the bus to take us back to Nagao station.
Looking back, even more than the nature or the temples themselves, I found that the people are what make the henro experience unique. All along the path there was a sense of community, not only from your fellow henro, but from the families living along the henromichi. While some are willing to give lodging to a traveling henro, others food or money, they all seemed to at least give a warm, hearty smile and an air of "gambatte!" You aren't just walking with Kukai, but with everyone you meet along the way.
