24Apr10: Reese Mankenberg

Henro is for Lovers

When we began last week's tour of Motoyama and Iyadani temples, I was excited to continue with the henro journey I began about a year ago.  I was picking away at the 88 temples one by one and collecting those precious stamps in my henro book, so I jumped at the chance to check off a couple more before leaving Japan in July.  It was much to my dismay then, when upon arriving at the first temple, things looked a little too familiar.  As it turned out, I had already been to Motoyama before.
    This did nothing for my attitude, especially considering it was the beginning of a long day that would be spent retracing a familiar 18km hike.  I was convinced I was about to waste my Saturday, one I could have spent half-naked on my couch, surrounded by food scraps and watching TV.  Instead, as often happens on any stretch of the henro journey, I found myself having a great time walking the trail with my close friends.
    From the start, it seems that the entire henro experience has been pegged as more of a personal journey.  This is surely derived from its roots in Buddhism, but is also easy to see in the simple physical aspect of the hike.  Walking about 1500km in just over a month is no small feat, and one that is appealing as personal test of will and strength.  In my experience, however, the henro path seems better suited as a means to strengthen relationships, whether they are with close friends or those other pilgrims one meets along the way.
    Now, when I flip back through my stamp book to reminisce on my henro journey thus far, I notice that my fondest memories are derived from the conversations I had with my friends or the little side adventures I had meeting new people.  That's not to say that the history and nature I've encountered along the trail weren't incredible.  On this last organized hike, for example, Iyadani temple, built into a cave and perched at the top of a small mountain stands out in my mind.  But I will especially remember the jokes made, the deep philosophical conversations, and the life stories told along the way, and it is for these reasons that my seemingly awful start to a day blossomed into a fond memory by the end of our hike.
    I would suggest, then, that those interested in beginning their own henro journey find a friend or two to join them, or at the very least, try to get to know as many of their fellow pilgrims they meet along the way.  At the risk of sounding clichéd, there really is something magical that happens when a long hike and companionship meet; and, rest assured, the henro trail is one hell-of-a-long hike.
      
Reese Mankenberg